Saturday, August 28, 2010

A Rosé wine question

A faithful reader recently asked about rosé wines, wondering who, what and where they were royally made. Fact is, a dedicated rosato is very hard to find. Here are a couple of quick thoughts:

1. Rosé, as in a dedicated rosato that is made for its own ends, is very rare. Most rose is the product of a saignee program, meaning that juice has been drained from the skins of a red wine not to create a rose specifically, but to concentrate a red wine. (Here is a hint - after three inches of rain last fall in Northern California during harvest, you can bet that a rather large amount of 2009 rose from those areas is available. Many vintners bled off 20-25% of their juice to make up for the rain filled Cabernet.) This is standard practice in many places, all over California in particular. In many/most cases the pink juice is drained off in 24 - 48 hours, water is added to bring the alcohol down to 13-ish % (most in the know claim that a rose over 13% is an error in California) and the pink juice is fermented coolly like a white wine, usually resulting in strawberry madness. The famed areas of rose production in Tavel and Lirac (to a lesser extent) can approach 14%, which brings us to the next point...

2. The best roses are usually dedicated roses, meaning that the grapes are pressed in the pink stage, adding extra body, complexity and depth that the saignee method can not, also helping to meld higher alcohol/ripeness levels, because in most of the world water can not be added like it legally is in California. Grenache and Cinsault are the primary varietals for this. Certain parts of the Loire are quite famed for their Cab Franc roses as well.

3. Rose shows flaws quite clearly, just like a white wine. The number of H2S-defective roses running around is astonishing, ostensibly because it is usually an afterthought, and the last tank to be checked and monitered during crush. The yeast work too fast, or are too cold, the juice is too clear or they are too reductive. Yeast stress is the largest offender, as some defects are moot with the early removal from skins. VA isn't such a problem. A lot of roses have had H2S problems and have been copper fined, stripping them down to the basics of pink alcohol. At the other end are enterprising roses fermented in new oak barrels with all sorts of bizarre woodiness and over enthusiastic batonnage programs that smell like old cheese and sawdust. Most people find charm in a simple rose. Residual sugar is another area of contention as a touch holds onto volatile aroma compounds, lowers alcohol a tad, and broadens mouthfeel. On the downside, sugar is sugar, and a sweet rose can make you feel like a hack - though some good ones do exist with a touch of sweetness. The irony is that cold weather grapes (imagine a St. Laurent rose = brilliant) would probably make real good rose, but colder climates are the last place you would want to consume them. This is where a place like Alto Adige comes into its own.

4. There are a few grapes highly regarded for rose beyond Grenache and Cinsault. Sangiovese and Mourvedre are a couple, Cab Franc and Tempranillo can also work quite well. Minerally Pinto Noir can be phenom, and skanky grapes like Syrah and Negroamaro give a good hope of unusual varietal interest. Obviously just about any red grape can make a rose - and most end up tasting like strawberry. Our Nebbiolo experiment in 2006 was pure watermelon Jolly Rancher - one of the few flavor profile varients beyond barrel treatment to be had. The fermentation kinetics usually create a pretty firm strawberry core, and then you try to work spice into the mix. Just about any hot area will make them, and on a hot day they can all taste pretty darn good. Whether or not getting too fancy with them is open for debate.

5. Ironically, some of the best and cheapest to be had is Bordeaux Cabernet rosé, say 2005 Phelan Segur at $5.95 a bottle retail. The extra minerality and Cab-iness clinched it.

6. When you talk about rosé Champagne or Cremant (non-Champagne sparkling wine) - it becomes a whole new complex animal, and for the money, probably the only game worth playing.

And, number 7: The eternal dilemma: That rosé you had in Provence will taste like crap at home. Such is life...

Sunday, August 1, 2010

Negroamaro - the next Syrah?


(Note - we have our first vintage of Negroamaro in barrel now - part estate, Yolo and Mendocino counties. I definitely see some intense viticultural issues with this grape, especially with its peculiar cluster morphology, so it will be management intensive. What we have is quite unique - extremely dried plum-ish that would seem high-ripeness but it is rather low alcohol, has silky tannin and very soft acid. The non-estate fruit had poor canopy management, but sometimes that overshaded fruit (which is better than over exposed), unmanaged rusticity is a key component, and I think maybe 30% of our block I will leave with heavy canopy to preserve that brambly element. It tickles in the right places.

But, to answer the question, could it be the next Syrah? Maybe, but the current California Italian market is still uphill - especially with lazy wholesalers and their mistaken status quo low-hanging-consumer-fruit focus, though it is slightly easier to navigate with the newer wine drinkers with direct contact. The flavor profile is unique though, and gentle... Fingers crossed!)

Negroamaro or "Negro Amaro" could be the new Syrah, with the exception that it might actually sell. Syrah is actually doing ok realistically, the good producers doing serious work are still making great wine with it. It is not a grape suited for the cheap mass market though, so the shakeout is a good thing.
Anyway, Negroamaro has several things going for it:

Freshly planted on Kelsey Bench
1. It has a pronounceable name that is descriptive and its meaning can be inferred by most folks with a bit of work that lends an adventurous/exploratory element that some consumers love. It is not as foreign as Aglianico...

2. Negro Amaro is like Syrah in that it has good dark violet color that consumers seem to expect these days and only moderate tannins (Syrah has a particular tannin-color linking structure that prevents it from becoming too tannic and drying, excluding viticultural or winemaking error). It can be silken or a little chunky, but never astringent when properly handled. Negro Amaro also tends to be fairly warm-climate vibrant with that violet flower and touch of high-toned delicate white blooms coming through against a deeper and more musky/rustic background - a lot like Mourvedre and North Rhone Syrah.

3. Like Syrah there can be strong leatheriness that forms the backbone in conjunction with a brambly spice element that evokes the old world (perfect in our lineup) while still being a relatively fruity warm weather grape. It has skank and finesse.

4. Coming from Puglia it is obviously drought tolerant and heat loving without compromising its typicity- yay. (But, it does sunburn, and crop load can be vary with soil type.)

5. Negro Amaro is often blended - the Salice Salentino DOC specifies minimum 85%, and often Malvasia Nera, Sangiovese or Primitivo are added to bump up the fruit/floral quotient. Hopefully this will not be the case in Lake County where we need to actually restrain the fruit bomb character of our wines and try to produce something with actual structure and character. For us, the more bramble the better - we don't need to worry about fruit here.

6. Negro Amaro rosato is known to be very, very good.

Needless to say we are excited to try our hand with this one. Its mix of backward rusticity, delicacy and aromatics should be exciting. Now if we can just get Nero d'Avola to pass quarantine our Southern Italian plantings will be complete. Sorry Calabria, but we don't see Gaglioppo in our future.

(Oh, incidentally, Negro Amaro may be a distant cross between Verdicchio and Sangiovese).